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T-Portal 09.08.2011 – Hrvatski turizam nezainteresiran za najljepši vidikovac na Jadranu

Autor: Ivo Lučić

Dubrovačkih krajolici obrubljeni su prstenom svetaca koji stoljećima uspješno oko Grada drže stražu. Većini njih Dubrovčani su zahvalni, što pokazuju redovitim svečanostima. Neke su, međutim, zanemarili. Takva je Orsula: mjesto prazna imena, premda bez sumnje ključno u dubrovačkom kraju. Na to nas je netom svojim projektom upozorio Andro Vidak, dubrovački poduzetnik od kojeg sudbina traži da ondje smjesti svoj san

O važnosti Orsule govori činjenica da je to bio jedini kopneni prilaz Dubrovniku sve do dolaska Napoleonova carstva, početkom 19. stoljeća. Sv. Orsula (Uršula) zaštitnica je djevojaka, pa neki provaliju duboku 200 metara, koja se ondje obara u more, povezuju s mjestom s kojeg su se u smrt bacale osramoćene i odbačene dubrovačke djevojke. Možemo pretpostaviti da siledžije među utjecajnim gosparima nisu bili veliki zagovornici Sv. Orsule, ali ćemo povjesničarima prepustiti da odgovore što je presudno kultiviralo dubrovački kalendar svetaca u kojem je izblijedjela zaštitnica djevojačke čistoće. I druga prateća pitanja poput: zašto je problem potisnut iz javne svijesti, zašto se nijedna od stradalnica nije nametnula barem kao lokalna heroina itd.

Nećemo se baviti ni najnovijom poviješću Hrvatske, tranzicijom, osim tek da je prizovemo kao okvir za bolje razumijevanje ove priče, kao što je slučaj i s prethodnim okvirom svetaca. Ako je išta obilježilo hrvatsku tranziciju, onda je to besprizorna pljačka javnih dobara. Puno toga zajedničkog budzašto pripade malom broju ljudi. Kad je u pitanju poklapanje neke velike tvrtke, zgodimice ga marketinški nazivaju carstvo ovoga ili onoga, a kad je u pitanju samoincijativno uređenje iznimnog prostornog javnog dobra, nazivaju ga san ovoga ili onoga.

Andro Vidak razvija svoj mali san revitalizacijom zaboravljenih povijesnih vrijednosti Orsule. Svoj projekt ne ostvaruje otimajući drugima, nego teško i pošteno radeći vraća krajoliku ono što na njemu pripada svima nama.

Orsula je omanja nagnuta terasa na jugoistočnom rtu Srđa. Iznad nje je vrh Žarkovica, a u provaliji ispod, more s otokom Lokrumom. To mjesto je Andro Vidak odabrao za svoj biznis. Godinama je, kaže, hodao okolnim brdima, sa psom, tražeći komadić prostora na koji krupni kapital nije bacio oko ili koji naši nisu dali stranom ulagaču da nas 'spasi'. Novaca nije imao, kao ni društvene financijske podrške. Odabrao je Orsulu, ne sluteći što sve podrazumijevaju upravni i poslovni aspekt od pronalaska lokacije do finalizacije projekta. Četiri godine trebalo mu je da sredi papire, a daljnje dvije da njegov trud postane dovoljno vidljiv da može ilustrirati obrise sna. U okviru parka Orsula, kako ga je nazvao, smještenog na vidikovcu, ovih dana pokreće prve sadržaje kulturnog turizma.

Najprije je godinu dana rješavao imovinsko-pravne probleme pa mjesecima čekao potvrdu da teren nije miniran. Potom je u stotinama godina zapušten lokalitet uložio stotine i stotine radnih sati, ne računajući pomoć drugih, prijatelja i pokojeg angažiranog radnika. Kad bi raščistio gustu makiju koja se splela nakon tko zna kojeg požara, ukazalo bi se smeće, olupine automobila, štednjaci, građevinski otpad.

'Cijela Hrvatska zarast će u drač pored ove administracije; ponekad pomislim da joj smisao samo da sebi dijeli plaću. Više puta su mi u četiri godine rekli: slučaj je toliko kompliciran da ga ni puno jači ne bi mogli lako riješili. Ili, e moj mladiću, koliko toga ima u drači što treba obnoviti, pa zašto bi baš to? To bi ubilo i najvećeg optimista, ali mene nije moglo', objašnjava Vidak, nastojeći svesti kritiku na najmanju mjeru.

'Bilo je teško, ali zanimljivo: svaki očišćeni metar prostora donio je novo otkriće. Ispod pola metra nanosa koji smo okopali izvire neki skaline, onda navališ doslovce kopati noktima; jedva čekaš novi dan da nastaviš', domeće.

'Kad sam došao do ruševine crkvice, u kojoj se našla zahrđala automobilska hauba, nisam znao je li to sreća ili nesreća. Obavijestio sam Konzervatorski zavod, a oni je nisu ni imali evidentiranu u popisu spomenika. Bili su prilično skeptični da ja tu nešto mogu s obzirom na kompliciranu proceduru. Slijedila je procedura: geodetska snimka uz pomoć koje je arhitekt potom nacrtao zatečeno stanje; na temelju toga dobio sam odobrenje za arheološko istraživanje, čije smo rezultate stavili u povijesni kontekst.' Crkvica je, prema Vidaku, građena po oporuci Dubrovkinje Tolle del Silvestrou iz 1348. godine. U njoj su pokapali do oko 1430, stradala je u potresu 1667. i obnovljena, a funkciju izgubila nakon razaranja u rusko-crnogorskom napadu početkom 19. stoljeća:

'Sve prethodno je bilo potrebno da možemo pokrenuti konzerviranje građevine. Same građevinske radove na konzervaciji platilo je društvo prijatelja dubrovačke starine, sve drugo mi iz svog špaga.'

Nakon što su očistili prostor terase s crkvicom, dohvatili su se dijela starog karavanskog puta, koji se nije vidio od raslinja. Uklonili su s njega odronjene stijene i koristili ih za gradnju međa, podzida i terasa te ga dijelom osigurali novom ogradom. Tako su put koji je sam po sebi vrhunska vrijednost djelomično vratili u funkciju, a Parku Orsula s donje strane osigurali romantičan pješački pristup iz Grada.

Na pitanje kako je rješavao uređenje prostora, Vidak odgovara: 'Ako voliš prirodu, ona ti sama kaže kako trebaš. Pratiš izohipsu kako ćeš postaviti među, maslina te zove da je oslobodiš drače... To ide samo. Nikad nisam bio sretniji u životu, i po kiši i po snijegu sam radio, pomagali su mi prijatelji, a i moja djeca Marin i Đivo su često bili ovdje.'

Rezultat je pripitomljen prostor s nizom jednostavnih staza s klupicama, amfiteatrom i malom terasom s crkvicom. Dok sam petnaestak minuta fotografirao Orsulu u zalazak, silueta dvoje mladih stajala je nepomično kao kip od bronce. Iza njih je, umjesto fototapete, stajao živi Grad na kojem su pulsirala slabašna svjetla. Na drugoj strani se mračilo, pa sam mogao dobro doživjeti impresivan opis puta preko Orsule Ivana Kukuljevića Sakcinskog iz 1856, koji nam je Andro Vidak naizust izgovorio, iz glave.

Nastavili smo razgovor uz mali kiosk na ugibalištu uz Jadransku magistralu, koji s gornje strane oivičuje park. Malo su ga ometali komarci, a još više turisti gladni osnovnih informacija. Pitamo ga je li tako stalno. Potvrđuje. Kaže da je predlagao turističkim vlastima da u suradnji s njima doda svojim sadržajima informativni punkt, ali da one nisu pokazale zanimanje za suradnju.

Park Orsula prelazi u novu fazu. Po danu bi trebalo biti izletište s predivnim vidikovcem, a navečer mjesto s glazbenim i kazališnim priredbama. Kako će se razvijati, teško je reći jer to ovisi o mnogo pitanja od kojih su neka, poput atmosferskih prilika, izvan ljudskih utjecaja. No, dubrovačka javnost ga bez podjela pozitivno vrednuje. Neformalno se tjednima pronose pozitivne informacije o Orsuli, što se ovih dana nastavilo i u lokalnim medijima. Iako se radi o privatnom projektu, svi ga smatraju važnim prinosom općim interesima. To je sasvim suprotno od loše prostorne politike po kojoj je Dubrovnik došao na loš glas u cijeloj Hrvatskoj, pa i šire.

Dok se žare večernja svjetla, koja pozlaćuju nabore krajolika od Cavtata do Šipana, čovjek se ne može sjetiti nijednog argumenta protiv Vidakove tvrdnje da je u pitanju najljepši vidikovac na Jadranu, sa 270 stupnjeva čiste fantazije.

 

 

 

 

 

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